That brings out the figure but insures that the finish will properly adhere to the workpiece.Jim - Thanks for the info. Of course, those of us who use water borne products (which typically add little color) also tend to use some BLO and seal with de-waxed shellac before top-coating. Last edited by Jim Becker 01-17-2010 at 3:42 PM.įor the record, I use Target Coatings EM6000 most of the time. Just be sure you lightly abrade the surface between coats if more than a few hours pass between them.poly doesn't like to stick to itself and needs a little "tooth" brought by some gentle 320 grit sanding between coats. That said, the product you bought is perfectly fine to use. When you look at the stocked shelves at the 'borg and read the ads, you are lead to believe it's the "best thing since sliced bread". The one thing that poly has going for it is.marketing. ![]() That brings out the figure but insures that the finish will properly adhere to the workpiece. ![]() For the record, I use Target Coatings EM6000 most of the time. There are much better water borne products available.you'll often see them mentioned in threads here. The only one I've used is Minwax Polycrylic and it's an ok finish and readily available. Water borne "poly" is simply an acrylic finish with a little polyurethane resin added. As to hardness, poly is NOT a hard finish to the contrary, it's a softer finish than non-poly varnish due to the abrasion resistance properties.which also means it's harder to polish to a particular sheen since that is an abrasive process. Either of these varnish types will bring out figure like any oil based finish will. For an oil based finish, a non-poly alkyd resin varnish (Pratt & Lambert #38, for example) or phenolic resin varnish (Waterlox, for example) would be my preference. Polyurethane is wonderful for floors because it was designed for increased abrasion resistance in that setting, but is not ideal for furniture. Now you have me concerned about the use of the oil-based poly to begin with! I would probably have preferred the water based, if for no other reason than easier clean up, but I want something that is going to bring out the grain, especially of the maple base pieces, while giving a sufficiently hard finish for the top of a relatively high traffic don't use any kind of "poly", for the most part. Mineral spirits and paint thinner should be stored in a dry environment, staying out of reach of children and combustible objects.Thanks for the reply. You should also note the precautions for storage. It can completely burn your hand in this case. In case they stick to the skin, you must wash immediately. It is important to note that they should not be used with flammable objects such as wood or coal. Even if you use them too much in a closed environment, you may faint. Moreover, its manufacturing process is also purified to reduce toxins VOCs and sulfur.Īnyway, benzene in both can sometimes make you a little dizzy when inhaled. ![]() The more ingredients, the worse it is stinking.Ībout mineral spirits? It clearly has a lighter smell. The smell is derived from chemicals which makes it more harmful. They have all been inspected by OSHA-mandated Safety Data Sheet (SDS).īut, for comparison, paint thinner seems to be more toxic. In fact, both are not much different when it comes to safety.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |